My Magnum Opus

You’re doing tomatoes wrong. Okay, I’m making an assumption, but let me tell you about the ways your tomatoes (canned, in a tube, or fresh) can highlight the dishes you prepare to REALLY make them sing.

First things first - don’t buy shitty tomatoes. My mother ingrained this into me throughout my adolescence. She lives by the gospel of Barefoot Contessa, who, as we all know, loves a high-quality ingredient. The simplest way to elevate your cooking is to know which specific high-quality products will have your guests going, “Why is yours so much BETTER than mine?” Which is obviously what you’re going for.

Let’s be real, we can’t all afford organic, free-range, best of the best... But when it comes to an inexpensive cupboard staple that’ll be the primary flavour and basis of a dish (i.e. tomatoes), good lord, it makes all the difference. Cheap tomato products don’t have the same sweetness or acidity and won’t add the rich umami flavours really good tomatoes provide. They’re also more likely to have additives you don’t really want to eat. The second you make the switch, you’ll be left with a more complex tomato flavour that immediately enhances every other ingredient in your dish.

Canned tomatoes 

Buy only whole peeled plum tomatoes for everything. While chopped or diced might seem easier to work with - they’re also more likely to have not-so-tasty additives and loads of excess water that you can avoid by picking up whole tomatoes instead. You may even get to enjoy squishing the whole tomatoes with your hands which is some of the most fun you can have as an adult in the kitchen.

It’s important to pay attention to how the ingredients you use affect the dishes you make, so explore what your supermarket has to offer and don’t be afraid to try a few and compare. From there, whenever you can, buy Italian. If you want to go the extra mile, perhaps for a tomato sauce you’re hoping to make the star of the show at a dinner party- get yourself some proper San Marzano canned tomatoes with D.O.P. status.

D.O.P. is the Italian acronym for Protected Designation of Origin known as PDO in English. A PDO is a tool used in many European countries to symbolise quality. You will probably have seen a PDO symbol on some bottles of wine. For example, on some Italian wines, you will find DOC, DOCG, or IGT around the neck of the bottle. This proves that it is truly from the area that creates this item (in this instance San Marzano) and that it has been tested to be of a high enough quality that it has the stamp of approval from the area that is oh so famous for making this specific thing. So you know the quality is going to be top-notch. In fact, it will likely be some of the best in the world. For San Marzano tomatoes to receive DOP status, they must be grown in the volcanic soil at the foot of Mount Vesuvius. Some truly exceptional wines are also grown in this area. I could get nerdier about soil - but I will not. 

In the UK, you’ll likely need to go to a specialty shop to find DOP-canned San Marzano tomatoes (I have a fancy butcher shop near me that carries them). But if you’ve never experienced San Marzano canned tomatoes  - RUN don’t walk - to where they sell them near you. They are specifically grown and picked at their best to be perfect in sauces; with fewer seeds and lower water content than other tomatoes, they’re going to make your dish extra delicious. 

Tomato Paste

I’m not going to get into choosing quality, because you already know where I stand on this, but my heart aches whenever I see someone using tomato paste incorrectly. Yes, there is a correct way to use tomato paste and it is a game-changer. This simple switch will change the complexity and taste of your dishes instantly - and you can thank me later. 

Tomato paste is made from fresh tomatoes that have been cooked down, strained, and then pureed and cooked until they’re reduced into a super concentrated paste that will add a strong tomato flavour without any additional water. But listen, tomato paste isn’t going to add tomato flavour in the sense that your dish will suddenly taste like a tomato sauce. Instead, tomato paste done right is going to add the special magic that tomatoes contain - umami.

Umami is a word used for a “savoury” flavour. If you don’t have any concept of what that means, I would suggest trying a little bit of MSG (and then using said MSG in your cooking because we hate weird food propaganda around here.) If you don't have any on hand, just think about what an aged cheese tastes like compared to a standard one. Aged cheese has more umami. Soy and mushrooms also contain umami flavours, so consider the throughline of flavour between those items.  

Here’s what not to do: Add tomato paste directly into a liquid (broth, sauce, etc.) When you do that, you’re not giving it the chance to cook into your dish properly and release all its concentrated flavours. In fact, it will probably add a raw metallic flavour to the dish that may overpower your other ingredients rather than enhance them. 

Here’s the secret. No matter what you’re making, this is what you have to do. The basis of the concept rests on simple culinary principles: sauteing your aromatics, caramelization, and deglazing.

Start with your aromatics. Aromatics are a combination of vegetables, herbs, and occasionally meat that are heated in fat (butter, your favourite cooking oil, ghee, etc.). There are many classic aromatic combinations but in this instance, let’s say you’re cooking down onions and garlic with some olive oil. You’re going to fry up or saute those onions until translucent or to your liking. 

Only once you’ve sufficiently sautéed your aromatics do you add your tomato paste. The paste will initially appear a very vibrant red colour, which is not what you want. Therefore, the most important piece of the equation now is time. Cook your tomato paste down with your aromatics until it caramelises. This means giving it an occasional stirring until it turns a gorgeous brick colour, almost brown, and is reduced to a jammy consistency with your aromatics. This can take at least 5 minutes, but you don’t want to rush it, as this is when the magic happens. 

Once your tomato paste is jammy, brown, and gorgeous (but not burnt), it’s time to deglaze! This is when you take your liquids (stock, wine, canned tomatoes etc.) and loosen everything up, scraping any yummy browned goodness from the bottom of your pot. You can then continue making your sauce, soup, or stew; IDK, it’s your prerogative. This simple switch will change your entire cooking GAME. You’re welcome.

Fresh Tomatoes

Never, ever put fresh tomatoes in the fridge. My father works in the produce industry, so if anyone knows about fruit and vegetable storage, it is, well, him. But as a result of being raised by him, you should also listen to me. Tomatoes have an enzyme that reacts poorly to cold temperatures, which results in mealy, mushy fruit that has effectively been zapped of any flavour when put in the fridge. YUCK. 

Any tomato packaging (at least in the UK) will probably note that it should not live in your fridge but for some reason that doesn’t seem to stop most people I know. I once ran an experiment with some store-bought Tesco vine tomatoes (to prove a point to my flatmate, obviously), and the tomatoes outside the fridge lasted over a week longer. I’m not kidding. I would never lie to you. So just trust me on this one. Plus, it gives you an excuse to buy cute little bowls for your tomatoes. Let those bad boys shine on your counter

Now Get Cooking…

Tomatoes are a staple in any kitchen because they’re one of the essential ingredients across most cuisines and cultures - which is why I’m starting with how to make yours taste better. So buy the best quality canned tomatoes you can find, cook your tomato paste, and store fresh tomatoes in a beautiful bowl on your countertop to brighten your day. 

Personally, they also hold a very special place in my heart because so many of my favourite meals growing up involved tomato sauce, or a tomato base, and while I hated raw tomatoes as a child - shocking I know - even raw tomatoes now feature in my favourite recipes. 

So yes, I’m particularly passionate about tomatoes. But the essence of my points also loop back to what I’m TRULY passionate about, which is conscious cooking. I am emphasising how to make your tomatoes taste better because that’s where I started exploring this concept. I think the secret to becoming a successful home cook is to be conscious of how each ingredient actually affects your dish. Pay attention to how each small change you make can make something more (or less) delicious! Don’t just follow recipes blind - explore, experience, and learn! Being curious is KEY. If you pay attention to your food, your confidence in the kitchen will skyrocket, and that’s a promise. 

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